Contouring isn’t about changing how you look – it’s about enhancing your natural bone structure. Once you understand your face shape and where to place products, you’ll achieve a naturally sculpted look.
First: Determine Your Face Shape
Look in the mirror with your hair pulled back:
- Oval: Forehead slightly wider than chin, high cheekbones, face length about 1.5x width
- Round: Face length and width are similar, soft angles, full cheeks
- Square: Strong jawline, forehead and jaw similar width
- Heart: Wide forehead, narrow chin, may have widow’s peak
- Long/Oblong: Face longer than wide, similar width throughout
- Diamond: Narrow forehead and jawline, wide cheekbones
Contouring Basics
Product Choices
- Cream contour: More natural, best for dry/normal skin
- Powder contour: Longer-lasting, best for oily skin
Shade Selection
Choose a contour shade 2-3 shades darker than your skin with gray undertones (mimics natural shadow). Avoid orange or warm brown.
Contouring for Each Face Shape
Oval Face (The “Ideal” Shape)
Goal: Light enhancement only
- Subtle cheekbone contour
- Light nose contour if desired
- No need for heavy sculpting
Round Face
Goal: Add length and definition
- Contour temples and sides of forehead
- Strong cheekbone contour (higher placement)
- Contour along jawline to narrow
- Highlight center of face vertically
Square Face
Goal: Soften angles
- Contour corners of forehead
- Contour corners of jawline
- Contour below cheekbones
- Highlight center of forehead and chin
Heart Face
Goal: Balance forehead and chin
- Contour temples and sides of forehead
- Light cheekbone contour
- Highlight chin to add fullness
- Highlight under eyes
Long/Oblong Face
Goal: Add width, reduce length
- Contour along hairline
- Contour bottom of chin
- Horizontal highlighting on cheeks
- Avoid vertical highlighting
Highlighting Basics
Where to Highlight
- High points of cheekbones
- Bridge of nose
- Cupid’s bow
- Center of chin
- Inner corner of eyes
- Brow bone
- Center of forehead (if forehead isn’t large)
Highlighter Types
- Powder: Long-lasting, visible payoff
- Cream: Natural, dewy finish
- Liquid: Can mix with foundation for all-over glow
Blending is Everything
- Apply products with a small brush
- Blend with a damp beauty sponge
- Use circular motions
- Build gradually – you can always add more
- Check in natural light
Nose Contouring Tips
- To slim: Contour along the sides
- To shorten: Contour the tip
- To straighten: Draw lines straighter than natural shape
- Always highlight the bridge
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using contour that’s too warm/orange
- Harsh lines without blending
- Too much product
- Contouring in wrong lighting
- Ignoring neck and ears
Practice makes perfect with contouring. Start subtle and build up as you get comfortable!
